GAME ON: A GUIDE TO TRAVELLING TO SOUTH AFRICA

A journey offering both big-city fun and game drives on safari.

By Karen Eull

Seeing African elephants in the wild is always an enticing possibility on safari. | VIDEO: AMAZINGAERIAL/ENVATO

I don’t need to know the word for “lion” in any of South Africa’s 12 official languages to know there’s one nearby. As soon as our game tracker, Chuchu, gets a radio call and hits the gas, we’re sure she’s headed toward something exciting.

On safari at Pilanesberg National Park, you see many animals — including so many elephants, giraffes and zebras that I stopped counting — but lions are the main event. So, when Chuchu speeds up, we have cameras and binoculars at the ready. She deftly navigates our large open-sided truck over the rough dirt roads (as we bounce around in the back like monkeys) and then rounds a bend just in time for us to see a lioness saunter across the road ahead. Unlike us, she’s in no hurry at all.

Chuchu is pleased that we made it here ahead of any other trucks. This sighting is just for us. “We are the lucky ones this morning,” she says.

“Luck” is a word that comes up many times on this trip in so many ways. I cherish every sighting of these rare animals (some of which are getting rarer by the day) in the wild. But the subject of luck, or rather privilege, also comes to mind in some sombre moments. This journey will take me from the lows of Apartheid’s legacy to the great heights of beauty stretching before me as I travel from Cape Town to Pilanesberg Park.

A riot of colours defines the historic homes of Bo-Kaap in Cape Town. | VIDEO: BLACKBOXGUILD/ENVATO

An aerial view of a curved white-sand beach with turquoise water

Camps Bay Beach in Cape Town offers pristine white sand and turquoise waters. | PHOTO: FOKKEBOK/ENVATO

EXPLORING CAPE TOWN

If I hadn’t been so excited to get to Pilanesberg National Park, I could have stayed in Cape Town, where I landed, for a week or more. It’s easy to get swept up in the city’s current culture boom — especially while staying in the vibrant V&A Waterfront district, packed with posh hotels, boutiques, restaurants and coffee shops. Taking in the breathtaking city views from atop Table Mountain or sipping cocktails at a beach bar in Camps Bay are fun, easygoing ways to spend an afternoon.

However, I also wanted time to explore the city’s diverse but difficult history. There’s a statue of Nelson Mandela on the City Hall balcony where he made his first public speech after being released from prison in 1990 — a speech famous for helping usher the country into the post-Apartheid era. Daily boat trips take visitors to Robben Island to tour the jail (now a museum) where Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. And the vividly hued houses in the Muslim neighbourhood of Bo-Kaap offer more than just a great photo op — these historic 18th-century dwellings, originally rental units for slaves, were once all kept whitewashed. After 1994, when residents were finally permitted (and could eventually afford) to buy homes, it’s said property owners painted them in riotous colours to celebrate their freedom.

A view from a mountaintop of a cable car descending toward the city

A bronze statue of Nelson Mandela raising one hand in a wave

A concrete building with a glowing gold, geometric glass top

(From left) The cable car en route from Cape Town to Table Mountain; a bronze statue of Nelson Mandela in Cape Town’s city hall; The Zeitz MOCAA, designed by London’s Heatherwick Studio. | PHOTOS: (LEFT AND MIDDLE) COURTESY OF KAREN EULL; COURTESY OF MOCAA

The healing power of creativity shines bright in Cape Town, especially at the Zeitz MOCAA, the world’s largest museum dedicated to contemporary art from Africa and its diaspora. Find wonderful one-of-a-kind souvenirs at the many craft markets in town, including The Old Biscuit Mill, a restored factory space where local designers sell handcrafted clothing and wares amidst bustling eateries and bars.

No South African expedition is complete without a trip (in my case, by tour bus) around the famous Cape of Good Hope on the continent’s southern tip — a coastal drive that takes you past beautiful beach towns and wineries. Stop at Boulders Beach to watch a protected colony of African penguins waddling on the sand. (As if this country isn’t teeming with enough cool wildlife, why not throw in some penguin-spotting to ensure your trip is truly that of a lifetime?)

African penguins waddle, preen and bask in a protected colony at Boulders Beach. | VIDEO: BLACKBOXGUILD/ENVATO

TRACKING WILDLIFE AT PILANESBERG NATIONAL PARK

It’s a short flight from Cape Town to Johannesburg and a two-and-a-half-hour drive to the Bakubung Bush Lodge. This small resort is within the gates of Pilanesberg National Park’s game reserve of over 55,000 hectares (136,900 acres) — the fourth-largest game park in South Africa. It's home to more than 7,000 animals, which include the Big Five: lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos and Cape buffalo, one of four buffalo subspecies indigenous to Africa.

Safari days start achingly early. The first game drive of the day has you out in the park in the cooler hours, when the predators are most active. A second daily drive departs in the late afternoon. (I spend the hot midday hours between game drives lounging by the resort’s pool as vervet monkeys and mongooses dart between the deck chairs.)

An open-air dining area, with wooden picnic tables, glowing lanterns and a central fire pit

A view of a turquoise pool surrounded by green lawn, rocks and straw-roofed shelters

(Above) The "bonfire and boma" experience at Bakubung Bush Lodge in Pilanesberg National Park involves open-air dining around a central fire pit. (Below) The pool at Bakubung Bush Lodge. | PHOTO: COURTESY OF BAKUBUNG BUSH LODGE

“AS PART OF THE INITIAL RELOCATION PROGRAM, 6,000 GAME ANIMALS WERE INTRODUCED TO THE PARK — A MASSIVE CONSERVATION EFFORT THAT REQUIRES CONSISTENT CARE.”

Every drive is different — and the trackers always start off by managing expectations. They can’t promise any sightings, they warn. Yet never did they disappoint. It’s a point of pride for them to know all the best spots, and they share prime sightings with their colleagues over the radio — rarely in English, and sometimes in code. This is partly because they don’t want passengers to get their hopes up, but it can help protect the animals. One tracker tells me he never calls out rhinos over the radio because these beasts are particularly vulnerable to poachers who could be listening in.

Trackers, rangers and park staff have helped safeguard local wildlife since the area became a reserve in 1979. Prior to that, the populations of game animals in the area had dwindled due to commercial farming. As part of the initial relocation program, 6,000 game animals were introduced to the park — a massive conservation effort that requires consistent care. For instance, all the park’s mature male rhinos undergo surgery every few years to remove their horns (an effort to deter poachers, which, unfortunately, doesn’t always work). At a watering hole, one of our trackers, Peter, points out two gigantic hippos, George and Twiggy, that he helped care for as babies before they were released into the park.

An elephant walks through a patch of grass

A lion sits in a green area with it's mouth open

A giraffe stands in a sliver of light as the sun sets

(From left) Reaching heights of up to four metres, African elephants are the largest land mammals on Earth; the wild lion is classified as a vulnerable species; giraffes are a common sight in Pilanesberg National Park. | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF LAUREN LIVINGSTON

A safari bus drives off as passengers sit looking outside

Safari passengers scan a rocky ledge in Pilanesberg Park, hoping to catch sight of a leopard. | PHOTO: COURTESY OF KAREN EULL

On our second-last day, it’s our tracker, Tao, who takes us on the most memorable drive of the trip. The day starts off well — we see lions, elephants, rhinos and even the elusive buffalo almost right out of the gate. Tao gets a determined look in his eye. “Let’s see if we can make this a Big Five drive,” he says, referring to the rare occurrence when you see all the big-game species in a single outing.

We’ll have to rush past the many roadside zebras, impalas and giraffes to try, he warns, and we cheer him on. This time, when the call comes in, I hear his response in English, clear as day: “I’m coming! I’m coming!”

We pull in beside the truck that called in the sighting. Its passengers are pointing at a rocky ledge that borders the road, and we crane our necks to figure out what’s up there. And then I spot it — the rare sighting you hardly dare hope for. Climbing down from the rocks without a glance in our direction, a leopard. “Lucky” doesn’t even begin to describe this. I feel honoured.

This painstakingly restored park, now teeming with a diversity of wildlife, showcases what I’ll remember most about South Africa — its vast capacity for resilience and hope. CAA

ASK A CAA TRAVEL ADVISOR: WHAT SHOULD I BRING ON SAFARI?

If you’re planning to experience an African safari yourself, it’s wise to arrive prepared. Cassidy Royea, a CAA Atlantic Travel Advisor, has been there — and she has suggestions about what to pack, what you can leave at home, and what to expect when you get there.

What are the top five most important things to pack for a safari? Lightweight layers — early mornings can be quite chilly, but temperatures often warm up by the afternoon. Bug spray and sunscreen. Closed-toe shoes. A hat with a chin strap or a secure fit, so that it won’t fly off in strong winds. And a portable battery pack — you’ll likely be taking lots of photos and videos, so keeping your phone charged will help you avoid missing memorable moments. What shouldn’t travellers bring? Are there items people think are necessary that actually aren’t? Neutral-coloured clothing. Many people believe they need to wear only khaki, beige or other neutral colours on safari, but your safari guide will tell you that what you wear is generally not a major concern. As long as you remain seated, stay quiet and follow your guide’s instructions, you’ll have a great wildlife-viewing experience regardless of your outfit.

What’s the most exciting thing about going on a safari? Going on safari feels almost surreal. Watching lion cubs play, witnessing a hunt unfold or seeing an elephant family reunite are moments you’ll never forget. There’s also nothing quite like watching the African sunrise and sunset over the vast, untouched landscape. It creates a profound connection to nature and leaves you with memories that last a lifetime. – Lisa Mesbur

A CAA Travel Advisor can help you book your dream trip to Africa.

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